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Verdict

VerdictThe committee of enquiry for the district of Visp made up of the examining magistrate Josef-Anton Clemenz and recorder C. Clemenz, both living in Visp, have reached the following decision that there are no grounds for prosecution with the enquiry officially conducted into the accident that occurred on the ascent of the Matterhorn.
Wednesday July 26^thIt is summer, von Fellenberg is away in the mountains. It will be some time before Whymper’s letter receives attention from the Swiss newspapers.
Tuesday July 25^thFrom Interlaken, Whymper sent today a letter to von Fellenberg, the secretary of the Swiss Alpine Club. It is to be translated into German and French and then forwarded to the editors of Der Bund and the Journal de Genève.
Monday July 24^thThe Marquess of Queensberry, Lord Francis Douglas’ brother, and Henry Hadow, Douglas Hadow’s uncle, arrived in Zermatt today. Edward Whymper has reached Interlaken on his homeward journey.
Sunday July 23rdThis morning the Court recalled Peter Taugwalder Senior. They had some more questions for him…
Saturday July 22^ndThe Court summoned Alexander Lochmatter, who also accompanied the search party organised by Whymper and McCormick, and questioned him on the discovery of the bodies and absence of the remains of Lord Francis Douglas.
Friday July 21^stThe funerals were quiet affairs. First a Catholic service for Croz and, an hour later, an Anglican version for Hudson, Hadow and Knyvet Wilson. The process at the Enquiry, which began at 2pm, was, it seems, similarly subdued…
Thursday July 20^thToday is the 21st birthday of John Sholto, Marquess of Queensberry. His younger brother, Lord Francis, would be home in Scotland for the celebration had he not decided to participate in the Matterhorn ascent.
Wednesday July 19^thDer Bund, one of the leading Swiss daily newspapers, carried a report this morning about the fatalities on the Matterhorn. It attributed the slip to ‘the Englishman immediately behind the leading guide’, clearly Hadow although without knowledge of the name.
Tuesday July 18^thA detailed report of the accident was published in the Journal de Genève today, but it mixes up Douglas Haddo (sic) and Francis Douglas, and claims that Lord Francis made the fatal slip.
Monday July 17^thSpeculation about the circumstances around the tragedy on the Matterhorn is flying beyond the confines of the remote village. Whymper is under pressure to make public a clear report of what happened.
Sunday July 16^thIt was still dark of night when the 2nd search party, organised by Whymper and McCormick but without the blessing of the authorities, set out. Zermatters were forbidden from going anywhere until after early Mass had been heard so Whymper and McCormick put together a party of other English climbers and guides from Saas, Sankt Niklaus and Chamonix.
Saturday July 15^thSoon after 10am this morning, Herr Seiler of the Monte Rosa hotel was informing the authorities of yesterday’s tragedy. He had followed Whymper as the stricken young climber went straight to his room on his return from the mountain and learnt first hand what had happened.
Friday July 14^thThe day when victory turned into disaster.
Thursday July 13^thBefore dawn this morning, eight men strode through the streets of Zermatt. Edward Whymper, Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas and Douglas Hadow are the tourists hoping to reach the summit of the Matterhorn, with guides Michel Croz and Peter Taugwalder. Taugwalder’s sons, Peter and Joseph, go along as porters.
Wednesday July 12^thWhymper, Lord Francis and Arthur Girdlestone made the crossing this morning over a damp and murky Théodule Pass. First stop was at the Schwarzsee to stow equipment – tent, provisions and lots of rope – by the Chapel on the shore of the lake.
Tuesday July 11^thA milky sunshine filtered through the clouds this morning, whispering a change in the weather. Carrel sensed the shift and, in the night, gathered together fellow guides and porters to start moving equipment, upwards.
Monday July 10th As Whymper returned to the hotel at Breuil this morning he was spotted by Signor Giordano, who is in fact the “family of distinction” that Carrel had invented. Carrel is going to make a way for Giordano to reach the summit of the Matterhorn, for Italy!
Sunday July 9^thWhymper’s and Carrel’s paths crossed today as Whymper was walking the 28 kilometres down to Chatillon to procure medicines for an ailing Arthur Girdlestone.
Saturday July 8^thCharles Hudson’s plans for the summer are disintegrating as his companions fall off the planned path.
Friday July 7^thWhymper arrived in Breuil this afternoon, but Almer and Biner are still adamant that the Matterhorn should not be tried again. So he sought out Carrel, found that the Italian has some days available and hired him.
Thursday July 6th In the early hours, a group of Italian mountain guides left Breuil for an attempt on their Monte Cervino, the as yet unclaimed Matterhorn. Led by Jean-Antoine Carrel, a stone-mason from Val Tournenche well known for inspiring feats of mountaineering, the group has no clients.
Wednesday July 5^thThis morning, a Second Ascent of the Aiguille Verte was accomplished! It was a slightly unusual party to reach the summit. English climbers Kennedy, Hudson and Hodgkinson, with guides Michel Croz from Chamonix and Peter Perren from Zermatt, were accompanied all the way by Kennedy’s dog.
Tuesday July 4^thJoseph McCormick’s journey turned into a veritable marathon. After his overnight march from Martigny, he reached Argentière this morning only to find a note from Hudson to let him know that the party had decided to organise themselves at Chamonix and set out for their attempt on the Aiguille Verte from there.
Monday July 3rdAn hour later than intended, at 4am, Whymper, with his guides Almer and Biner, left the Montanvert above Chamonix.
Sunday July 2^ndCharles Hudson arrived in Chamonix today but without John Birkbeck whom illness has forced to return to England. Birkbeck has passed on the engagement with Michel Croz to Hudson.
Saturday July 1^stFine weather has not yet returned and it has been a quiet day for all the climbers. Thomas Kennedy and Edward Whymper took a stroll together above Chamonix, and it is assumed that the Aiguille Verte was the subject of discussion.
Friday June 30^thThe day after Whymper’s achievement of the First Ascent of the Aiguille Verte, the weather in Chamonix is gloomy and so is the pervading mood.
Thursday June 29^thWhile it was still dark, Whymper and his guides left the tent perched at the foot of the massive Aiguille Verte. The way up the couloir was tough.
Wednesday June 28^thAt 15.00, Whymper set out from Chamonix with Almer, Biner and a porter to carry camping equipment and provisions.
Tuesday June 27^thToday has been a day of rest for Whymper, who made it to Chamonix at ten o’clock last night, even if rest does involve what he deems to be a stroll up to Montenvers on the Mer de Glace to share a few beers with the owner M. Couttet.
Monday June 26^thWhymper’s extremely early start was to achieve a new crossing over the watershed between Courmayeur and Chamonix.
Sunday June 25^thAt last, a day of rest in Courmayeur for Whymper and his guides. Late arising from comfortable beds, time to attend the rites of Sunday – there is a church service for the English contingent at the hotel.
Saturday June 24^thThe “day” began in the dark at 1.30am, as Whymper, Croz, Almer and Biner left the hotel in Courmayeur. Three hours later they had passed the difficult section on the lower part of the ascent where the glacier slides down the Grandes Jorasses.
Friday June 23rdWhymper and his guides, Michel Croz, Christian Almer and Franz Biner are in Courmayeur.
Thursday June 22^ndEdward Whymper has given up on the Matterhorn – at least for the next few weeks. Michel Croz’s suggestion that the Mont Blanc chain offers challenges they should embrace refers chiefly to the unclimbed peak of the Aiguille Verte.
Wednesday June 21^stAt 05.45, as a hint of morning light glanced of the Matterhorn’s cliffs, Whymper with his guides set off to try to conquer the mountain from Breuil.
Tuesday June 20^thWhymper is now determined that the Matterhorn become the focus of his party’s endeavour.
Monday June 19^thWhymper and his guides spent a third night in the deserted hamlet of Abricolla, then morning sunshine lit the way over the Col d’Hérens towards Zermatt.
Sunday June 18^thThis morning, Whymper and his guides left the deserted hamlet of Abricolla unusually late. Biner, from the devout village of Zermatt, feels he is commanded to hear Mass on a Sunday morning before going anywhere.
Saturday June 17^thThe best laid plans often change, as Whymper’s did today.
Friday June 16^thJust after 2am, Whymper, Croz, Almer and Biner left Zinal to work their way round to the south side of the Grand Cornier. Here they found a route almost entirely on snow right to the summit, which they reached at 12.30.
Thursday June 15^thToday, Whymper and his three guides, Croz, Almer and Biner, travelled on foot from Turtmann to Zinal, a small village at 1,675m circled by 5 peaks of over 4,000m.
Wednesday June 14^thWhymper and Almer left Lauterbrunnen this morning and crossed the icy ridge of the 3,202m Petersgrat. This route has become established among mountaineers to reach the village of Turtmann in the Rhône valley.
Tuesday June 13^thThe Reverend William Hawker is a climbing colleague of Whymper’s who lives in Interlaken.
Monday June 12^thIn spite of arriving in Lauterbrunnen late last night, Whymper was up early today to spend happy hours scouting the terrain with his guide, Christian Almer.
Sunday June 11^thEarly this morning a letter arrived at Whymper’s house in London. Adams Reilly, knowing that Whymper’s plans for the summer include another go at the Matterhorn, thought it best to warn his friend of other climbers with the same ambition.
Saturday June 10^thThis morning, Edward Whymper left his Lambeth home, in London close to the River Thames. He is going to the Alps he has grown to love and the mountaineering that challenges and inspires him.

The committee of enquiry for the district of Visp made up of the examining magistrate Josef-Anton Clemenz and recorder C. Clemenz, both living in Visp, have reached the following decision that there are no grounds for prosecution with the enquiry officially conducted into the accident that occurred on the ascent of the Matterhorn.

Facts
…. Whilst crossing this dangerous place Mr Hadow slipped and in his fall knocked over the guide Croz. This double weight dragged down Mr Hudson as well and after him Lord Douglas. The few instants that this lasted gave those at the rear time to secure firm foothold, so firmly indeed that the rope between L. Douglas and Taugwalder father broke in two….

Considering:

that guilt attaches to no one on the above facts
that Mr Hadow was the cause of the accident that on the facts of the case set out above no one can be accused of a fault or of a crime it is decided there is to be no sequel to the foregoing enquiry, but a decision of no grounds for prosecution with an order that the Treasury bear the costs

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