Monday 24th July
09.00
The Verdict – the accident was the result of Hadow’s slip. Guilt attaches to no one. There are no grounds for prosecution
Sunday 23rd July
09.00
Old Peter Taugwalder is recalled. He is asked about the composition of the parties, who supplied the rope & the details that led to the slip
Saturday 22nd July
15.00
Edward Whymper has been given leave to depart Zermatt, with a promise from Clemenz that he will receive a copy of the proceedings
12.00
The Court has organised inventories of the belongings of the deceased, things are drawing to a close
09.00
Alexander Lochmatter from St Niklaus, who accompanied the party that found the bodies, was called to give evidence
Friday 21st July
19.00
Whymper has paid Old Peter the sum he believes is due to both Taugwalders for the Matterhorn ascent, including a Bonnemain
18.00
Franz Andenmatten from Almagell, who led the party organised by Whymper that found the bodies, was called to give evidence
17.00
Old Peter Taugwalder gave his evidence, all the questions but one being from Whymper’s list. He said he believed the rope was strong enough
15.00
Whymper gave his evidence. He explained how Hadow slipped, knocking off Croz, dragging down Hudson & Lord Douglas. Then the rope broke
14.00
The Official Enquiry into the tragedy on the descent of the Matterhorn starts in the Mont Cervin, with the aim to find if anyone was to blame
10.00
The funerals, 1st of Michel Croz, then of Hudson, Hadow & Knyvet Wilson, have been held at the Church of Zermatt
Thursday 20th July
17.00
Whymper has paid the Curé so that he will bury Croz & has settled Lord Francis’ outstanding bill at the Mont Cervin
12.00
Young Peter Taugwalder is given leave to depart Zermatt as he has an engagement with a client in Chamonix
10.00
The bodies of Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow & Michel Croz have been carried back to town. They will be buried in Zermatt tomorrow
Wednesday 19th July
19.00
A party of 21 men camp in chalets along the path to the glacier, sent to recover the bodies of those who perished on the Matterhorn
17.00
The question of why Old Peter tied to Lord Francis by the thinnest rope has entered the almost slanderous debate about the incident
11.00
Another English climber’s death – the body of William Knyvet Wilson, a Master at Rugby, has been found at the foot of the Riffelhorn
09.00
Old Peter Taugwalder has his questions. His cousin Judge Alois Julen is around so it looks like he’s getting some help to answer them
Tuesday 18th July
17.00
Whymper is pleased to be asked to formulate questions for Old Peter Taugwalder. He frames them so Old Peter can explain his choice of rope
15.00
A teacher from Rugby school has visited Whymper to help translate the questions from German to English & the answers into French
12.00
A list of questions has been delivered to Whymper’s room, those the Enquiry intends to ask him, although a date for when is not yet set
09.00
The weather has changed, the wind blows, the sky is grey. No Enquiry has yet been called, allowing supposition to take the place of fact
Monday 17th July
17.00
The rumours about Old Peter Taugwalder & the rope cutting have come to Whymper’s ears. He insists that would have been impossible
15.00
J-A Carrel & J-B Bich make the 1st successful ascent of the Monte Cervino from Italy. Celebrations in Val Tournanche
11.00
Whymper has passed pieces of broken rope to Herr Clemenz. They show that the connection between Lord Francis & Old Peter was the thinnest
10.00
The authorities have impounded the personal possessions taken from the corpses & instructed Whymper to stay in Zermatt pending the Enquiry
09.00
Herr Clemenz from Visp, President of the Council & owner of the Mont Cervin Hotel, has been appointed to lead the Official Enquiry
Sunday 16th July
17.00
Old Peter Taugwalder is denying the rumours that have set Zermatt alight, that there was no accident, the rope did not break, it was cut!
14.00
The search party has returned. They saw a scene of devastation & carnage, 3 maimed bodies but no sign of Lord Francis except for his boot
09.00
Carrel has set out from Breuil to make another attempt on the Matterhorn but without the intention to take his rich patrons to the top
08.00
A 2nd search party went this morning before daylight to reach the glacier before the sun makes it too dangerous, organised by Whymper
Saturday 15th July
21.30
Through the darkened streets of Zermatt rumours of foul play start to flutter like leaves blown by the wind & quickly escalate
20.00
The searchers have returned. The glacier was too dangerous but from the slopes of Hohlicht they spied 3 bodies
14.00
A search party has been called. 20 men receive 6 francs each & a share in 13 bottles of wine, to scale the heights & look for bodies
11.30
It is official – 4 men fell to their deaths on the descent of the Matterhorn. Herr Welschen, President of the Commune, has taken charge
10.30
Zermatt. Alexander Seiler at the Monte Rosa hotel is the 1st to know of the tragedy. Then the door to Whymper’s room closed
06.30
3 men are coming down off the Matterhorn but not together as brothers in the face of tragedy. Mutual understanding has died with the victims
Friday 14th July
21.30
Darkness. There is no choice for Whymper & the Taugwalders but to wait on a rocky ledge until tomorrow’s dawn lights a way down
19.00
Carrel & his friends retreat to their tent for yet another night, knowing they were beaten to the top of the Matterhorn
18.00
Whymper & Taugwalders father & son, sick with shock, have reached the safety of the snow. Relations in the aftermath of trauma are strained
15.50
Only three men now cling to the rock. Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow & Michel Croz fell to certain death, then the rope broke
15.45
In Zermatt, young Friedrich Taugwalder, watching the mountain intently, calls – an avalanche, look, an avalanche on the Matterhorn!
14.55
They have reached the tricky bit of the descent so rope together. Croz, then Hadow, Hudson, Lord Francis, Old Peter, Whymper, Young Peter
13.50
All 7 have reached the top, the sun is smiling, the tent pole is planted & Croz removes his precious blue smock to be their triumphal flag
13.40
Whymper & Croz release themselves from the rope to race to the summit & become the 1st men to reach the top of the Matterhorn!!!
12.20
The steep section cleared, they manoeuver horizontally, ascend, take a stride round a tricky corner. There is now only snow to the summit
10.50
They meet a tough, steeper section, fewer handholds, glazed with ice, Croz takes the lead & they rope together
10.00
The pace on the Matterhorn is slow & cautious but the rocks make a giant staircase & not are yet so challenging as to require roping up
08.00
The summit bound party on the Matterhorn started before daybreak & it included Young Peter, overjoyed to go along as a guide
Thursday 13th July
20.00
The setting sun fills the sky with a pink glow that betokens a fine morning. Men’s voices lifted in song echo around the darkening mountains
17.00
The Carrels have returned to their tent. They managed hardly any distance above it, they can’t cut steps through the deep, new snow
15.00
Croz & Young Peter return. The way above is easy, easy! We could have reached the summit today & got back. Tomorrow bodes well!!
12.00
The tent is pitched on a sunny ledge. Croz & Taugwalder’s older son Peter are sent to make an assessment of the unknown passage above
10.00
The way up the Hörnli is mainly easy going, a few places where an axe is necessary, they round some ledges to the Eastern face
08.00
Carrel & the Italians are struggling out of their tent on the Breuil side – it has been semi buried by yesterday’s snow fall
07.30
The pace is leisurely, they are at Schwarzsee to breakfast & retrieve Whymper’s supplies. Hudson & Whymper are deciding together on plans
05.30
Zermatt is lit by clean golden sun as 8 men leave town – Whymper, Lord Francis, Hudson, Hadow, Croz, Peter Taugwalder & sons Peter & Joseph
Wednesday 12th July
21.00
On a storm swathed Matterhorn, Carrel & friends are confined to their tent
20.00
The 2 teams have joined forces, will share guides Michel Croz and Peter Taugwalder & attempt the Matterhorn from Switzerland! Tomorrow!
19.00
The dining room at the Monte Rosa. Everyone is talking about the Matterhorn! Whymper & Lord Francis 1st & then Hudson & Hadow turned up
15.00
Whymper has stowed equipment at the Schwarzsee & organised his ropes behind the Chapel of Mary of the Snow. Ready for tomorrow!
12.00
Hudson arrives in Zermatt. Poor weather means he will wait until McCormick joins for real climbing. Takes a look up Hörnli with young Hadow
09.00
Whymper with Lord Francis are leaving Breuil, cold & wet, heavily laden with tent, blankets & a lot of rope
Tuesday 11th July
21.00
Whymper & Lord Francis have teamed up! Tomorrow they cross to Zermatt, engage Lord Francis’ guide Peter Taugwalder & attack the Matterhorn
19.00
Carrel & the Italians are spending an atrocious night in the tent on the rocky ledge he & Whymper had found in 1862
15.00
Whymper is finding Lord Francis an exceedingly amiable & talented young man. Sunny afternoon conversation has turned to the Matterhorn
14.00
Lord Francis has arrived in Breuil. He is delighted to meet Whymper, whose exploits he has heard tell of & can learn from
12.00
At Visp, Hudson finds no McCormick, who is delayed by bad weather, so he decides to continue to St Niklaus
10.00
Whymper is searching Breuil for guides or porters for the crossing to Zermatt, but they are all either with Carrel or hunting marmottes!
08.00
As a recaltricant sun tries to shine over Breuil, Whymper spots Carrel & his team up the mountain, starting their Matterhorn attack
06.00
A gap in the clouds! Lord Francis wants to get in a quick reconnaissance over the Théodule & employs Peter Taugwalder’s son Joseph as porter
Monday 10th July
22.00
Carrel sniffs the air, he senses a change in the weather & starts moving equipment up the mountain as a few stars prick through the clouds
19.00
Whymper spends a quiet evening in Breuil, thankful at least that the abominable weather prevents anyone attempting that mountain for now
10.00
Hudson leaves Chamonix with Hadow & Campbell, Croz & Perren, & porters carrying a trunk, precipice ladder & wire rope. Matterhorn prepared!
09.00
Lord Francis hopes to cross to Breuil, then tomorrow collect his packed bags from the Mont Cervin & head home. Weather keeps him at Riffel
Sunday 9th July
19.00
Whymper accepted Carrel’s story. They are in the inn at Val Tournenche, sharing wine and laughter at past exploits together in the mountains
10.00
Lord Francis plans a couple of days at Riffelhaus. The weather is not encouraging, he has to leave the alps soon & he’s almost out of cash
09.00
To extricate himself from the engagement to go for the Matterhorn with Whymper Carrel invents a story about a family of distinction
Saturday 8th July
19.00
Carrel meets Giordano. This is an engagement prior to that made with Whymper, for an all-Italian attempt on the Matterhorn
14.00
Under grey skies in Zermatt, Lord Francis is looking to fill the days before he must return home for his brother’s 21st birthday
12.00
In Breuil a caravan of mules & porters bearing climbing equipment arrives with Felice Giordano, a founding member of the Italian Alpine Club
08.30
Dark clouds hang heavily over Breuil. Whymper is busy with preparations for a Matterhorn attempt that might at last succeed – with Carrel!
Friday 7th July
21.00
In Chamonix, Hudson bids farewell to McCormick with arrangements to meet in Visp on the 11th thence to Zermatt & the Matterhorn!
19.00
It’s miraculous that Lord Francis & Taugwalder are alive. A cornice broke on the Gabelhorn. Saved by the rope that attached them to Viannin!
17.00
In Val Tournanche Carrel has agreed that he will attempt the Matterhorn with Whymper, who then discharged Almer & Biner
14.00
Kennedy has been obliged by the needs of his business to return to England. His plans to summit the Matterhorn will have to wait
12.30
Lord Francis Douglas with guides Peter Taugwalder & Joseph Viannin reached the summit of the Obergabelhorn from Zinal
12.00
Whymper is bound for Breuil, his heart set on the Matterhorn. “Anything but the Matterhorn, dear Sir, anything!” Almer pleads.
09.00
Hudson’s party have reached the summit of Mont Blanc, the pace was impressive, Hadow the novice has shown great strength
Thursday 6th July
20.00
Hudson, McCormick, the Kennedys, Hadow & Campbell with Croz & Perren overnight at the inn below Galerie des Bossons. Mont Blanc tomorrow!
14.00
Christian Almer almost lost his life down a crevasse. The snow gave way & Whymper followed. Luckily they were roped up & Biner held fast
12.00
The weather on the Matterhorn is abysmal. Jean Antoine Carrel and team are turned back from the Col de Lion
10.30
Lord Francis & guides, crossing the Triftjoch, spy men on the summit of the Obergabelhorn. The 1st ascent will not be theirs
9.15
Whymper and his team have made yet another 1st ascent, the Ruinette, at 3,785m the highest summit between the Grand Combin and the Dent Blanche
05.30
Val Tournanche. Local guides, Carrels Jean-Antoine & Cesar, Gorret & Maquignaz, are striding out on a misty dawn towards the Matterhorn
Wednesday 5th July
12.00
Lord Francis leaves Zermatt with Old Peter Taugwalder, heading for Zinal from where they will have a shot at being 1st up the Obergabelhorn
10.00
Hudson, Hodgkinson, Kennedy & his dog, with guides Michel Croz & Zermatter Peter Perren, have achieved the 2nd ascent of the Aiguille Verte
Tuesday 4th July
17.00
Edward Whymper is in Aosta. After a spectacular 1st ascent of the Aiguille Verte his confidence is high & the Matterhorn maybe within reach
08.30
Hudson, Kennedy (& his dog) & young Hodgkinson are setting off to try for a 2nd ascent of the Aiguille Verte, after Whymper’s 1st 5 days ago
Monday 3rd July
17.00
The crack team of Whymper with Almer & Biner have made it to Courmayeur, at only 10 hours from Chamonix this must be a record!
09.35
Whymper’s party has reached the top of a new pass over the Mont Blanc massif, that Whymper names the Col de Talèfre
Sunday 2nd July
17.00
Hudson, who has ambitious plans, now has Michel Croz as his chief guide. When Birkbeck had to go home, he passed on Croz’ services to Hudson
10.00
Charles Hudson arrives in Chamonix. He is travelling with 2 newcomers to the mountains, pupil A.J. Campbell & former pupil Douglas Hadow
Saturday 1st July
17.00
In Chamonix, Whymper, Almer & Biner are busy planning a new route that will be the quickest back over to Courmayeur
11.00
Kennedy is planning to get his party together & be 2nd up Aiguille Verte. He takes a stroll with Whymper to learn about its challenges
Friday June 30th
12.00
Dreary weather in the Alps & aching heads from last night’s celebration of Whymper’s 1st ascent of the Aiguille Verte. Nobody is climbing
Thursday June 29th
22.15
In the streets of Chamonix, gendarmes break up a scuffle between local guides & two outsiders, Almer from Grindelwald & Biner from Zermatt
21.00
Rapturous reception for Whymper in the Chamonix hotel – heaps of friends, Glover, Kennedy and his dog – Congratulations! Champagne!
18.30
3 victorious mountaineers & one exhausted, perspiring porter – his punishment for gluttony was to carry everything back - arrive Argentière
15.15
The stormy descent of the Aiguille Verte was slow, but reaching the tent, Whymper finds the porter has eaten all the supplies
10.00
An extraordinary achievement! Edward Whymper & his guides Almer & Biner are the 1st to summit the 4,122m Aiguille Verte!
Wednesday June 28th
13.00
Whymper, Almer, Biner & porter carrying camping gear leave Chamonix, cross a dripping Mer de Glace ready for the Aiguille Verte tomorrow
08.00
In Zermatt, Lord Francis engages Old Peter Taugwalder who he’s heard of as a solid guide with much experience on Monte Rosa
Tuesday June 27th
20.00
Lord Francis arrives at the Mont Cervin, Zermatt. Having succesfully summited the Wetterhorn & the Mönchsjoch his eye is on the Obergabelhorn
14.00
After yesterday’s spectacular traverse of the Col Dolent, Whymper is taking is easy and mainly drinking beer at the Montanvert
10.00
From today, Michel Croz is engaged to work for John Birkbeck, so he takes his leave of Whymper to wait for his new client
08.00
Charles Hudson’s plans for the summer change. In Geneva, Birkbeck has fallen ill & must go back to England but Hudson continues to the Alps
Monday June 26th
22.00
Whymper at the bar in Chamonix hotel. Orders a St Peray. Orders Champagne. Orders beer. Sleeps in his chair
17.35
After 7 hours, Whymper, Croz, Almer & Biner have made it to the Argentière glacier! Superlative skills in mountaineering & teamwork!
12.00
The way down the Mont Dolent couloir is a tortuous descent on the north side, cutting steps all way in bare ice & ingenious rope work
10.00
Whymper & team are on the Col Dolent, facing an icy couloir, steeper than 50°, that disappears at least 300m down to the glacier below
08.00
Hudson & Birkbeck leave London. They carry the ladder and wire rope Hudson has in mind to overcome the tricky bits on the Matterhorn
Sunday June 25th
22.30
It’s time for Whymper to get some sleep to start in a couple of hours to climb to the Col Dolent AND get down the other side to Argentière
18.00
Lord Francis Douglas, travelling towards Zermatt with guide Peter Inabit, overnights at Monte Rosa, St Niklaus
11.00
Kennedy, his wife and his dog leave Zermatt to travel towards Chamonix & the Aiguille Verte. Overnight at Monte Rosa, St Niklaus
10.00
Whymper rises late in Courmayeur. Attends Church service in the hotel with a congregation of parsons, their wives and their daughters
Saturday June 24th
20.30
Whymper’s team back in Bertolini’s excellent hotel, having survived an involuntary glissade that almost swept them away in an avalanche
13.00
Whymper reached 4,184m, almost the highest point on the summit ridge but then clouds closed in and a return to Courmayeur agreed
Friday June 23rd
17.00
Whymper & guides are back in Courmayeur having spotted what they sought – a new & maybe quicker route to Chamonix
09.00
Today Whymper is taking the team on a reconnaissance. He wants to take a look at that great wall of mountain, the Grandes Jorasses
Thursday June 22nd
17.00
Whymper is at Bertolini’s hotel, Courmayeur. He with Biner & Croz took a carriage to Aosta while Almer decided to run part of the way
06.30
Whymper’s team has left Val Tournanche to travel towards the Mont Blanc region & the lure of the unclimbed Aiguille Verte
Wednesday June 21st
17.00
Whymper is back in Breuil. When snow began to fall, he gave up on this, his 8th attempt to reach the summit of the Matterhorn
14.00
Biner & Almer are becoming discouraged. Almer to Whymper ‘Why don’t you try to go up a mountain which can be ascended?’
12.30
Plans changed & they tried to reach the Hörnli by Whymper’s route from 1863. But the glacier has shrunk, the way was impossible
10.30
Whymper & team are struggling with the route. A steep couloir hurled rocks at them & finally beat even Whymper’s determination to continue
05.45
Whymper with Croz, Almer, Biner & little Luc set off from Breuil to climb the Matterhorn from Italy
Tuesday June 20th
17.00
Whymper has hired Luc Meynet as porter for the Matterhorn attack, ignoring the Swiss guides’ objections to the hunchback’s personal hygiene
16.00
Favre, innkeeper at Giomein, is ordered to get together supplies for an assault on the Matterhorn.
14.00
Glover has slipped in a crevasse! Lucky for him that Whymper insisted they rope up on the glacier, in spite of Croz’ objections
12.00
Diversion up Théodulhorn to spot a new route up that might persuade Almer & Biner from their reluctance to climb the Matterhorn
06.00
Whymper leaves Zermatt for a shot at the Matterhorn from Breuil. But he must act fast as Croz is engaged in Chamonix on the 27th
Monday June 19th
19.30
In the sociable dining room at the Monte Rosa Whymper hooks up with young Richard Glover to cross the Théodule tomorrow
19.00
Whymper & Kennedy swap stories about the Dent Blanche climb. It transpires that Whymper’s was not a 2nd ascent, merely a 3rd
18.00
Whymper arrives Zermatt. Bad tempers soothed by an excellent welcome from Seiler at Monte Rosa Hotel, Whymper’s 2nd home
7.00
Whymper with Croz, Almer & Biner leave Abricolla for the 3rd time to cross the Col d’Herens. Destination – Zermatt!
Sunday June 18th
18.00
Still circling in fog on the Col d’Herens. Can’t continue. Darkness is falling, they must speed down to sleep again at Abricolla, supperless
15.30
Snowing hard on the Col d’Herens. Whymper’s team seem to be going round and round in circles rather than making progress towards Zermatt
14.30
Biner reaches Abricolla 2 hours late with wine but no food. They set off again to cross the Col d’Herens. Destination – Zermatt!
07.00
Whymper wants an early start if they’re to make it to Zermatt. But Biner had to go to Evolène for Mass. Promises to return with food & drink
Saturday June 17th
23.45
Whymper and his men have no choice but to return for another night at the dilapidated Abricolla chalet
16.30
Whymper, Croz, Almer & Biner are 2nd to reach the summit of the 4,357m Dent Blanche. Beards frozen, fingers raw, they start the descent
16.00
Thomas Kennedy, his wife and their dog arrive in Zermatt. He is determined that this is the year he will finally conquer the Matterhorn
15.00
On the challenging face of Dent Blanche wind & cold are atrocious. Wine is finished. Croz declares, Ma foi, we will spend the night & perish
08.00
Whymper proposes changing course to attempt Dent Blanche. Would not be 1st, Kennedy was that, but 2nd up a difficult mountain is motivation
05.00
Croz and Biner arrive back to Abricolla. The four set off immediately to cross the Col d’Herens. Destination – Zermatt.
Friday June 16th
20.00
Whymper shares his delicacies of food and wine with Almer to ward off the cold night on the wooden planks of the half burnt chalet.
19.00
Croz and Biner have opted for the 6 mile tramp to Evolène, in search of food & drink & comfort, commanded by Whymper to return by 4am
18.30
Whymper’s plan to overnight at Abricolla is scuppered. The hamlet is abandoned, the inn a burnt out shell
12.30
Whymper with Almer, Croz and Biner have made 1st ascent of Grand Cornier. It was snow slope all the way from the glacier.
Thursday June 15th
17.30
Whymper has established that Moore failed to reach the summit last year, so he does have a chance at a first ascent
17.00
Arrive Zinal – hotel guest book has an entry by Moore celebrating conquest of Grand Cornier – with Franz Biner as a guide!
13.00
Even from seven miles distance, the forbidding north face of unclimbed Grand Cornier looks inaccessible. A different route must be found
9.00
Tomorrow Whymper wants to attempt a 1st ascent of the 3,962m Grand Cornier, so today they walk across Forcletta to Zinal
Wednesday June 14th
17.00
Turtmann. Meet with Michel Croz & Franz Biner. The invincible team! Whymper planned the routes, the guides are in charge of executing them
13.00
Whymper and Almer cross the Petersgrat. Cold beer on the descent from a village Curé is very welcome.
9.00
The journey begins for real. Whymper has planned to the utmost detail the routes to be taken & their technical demands
Tuesday June 13th
15.00
Whymper & Almer abort their attempt on a new pass to the Concordiaplatz & Eggishorn. You have to know when to turn back
9.00
Whymper and Rev Hawker join their teams for an inspection day, checking out new passes from Lauterbrunnen.
Monday June 12th
17.00
Evening resting in Lauterbrunnen with maps and sketches. Whymper is keen to see how far his technical skill at route planning has developed
6.00
Whymper meets guide Christian Almer from Grindelwald. They set out to scout the route the party will take the next day.
Sunday June 11th
19.00
Whymper arrives Lauterbrunnen. After months planning ascents he’s excited to get started & he has a great team of guides ready to go
9.00
A letter at Whymper’s house. His friend Adams-Reilly warning that Hudson, Kennedy & Birkbeck also plan a Matterhorn assault. It lies unread
Saturday June 10th
20.00
First stop, Paris. Whymper passes the evening alone. Many climbers’ eyes are turning to the Matterhorn this year, but he has a head start
15.00
Usual questions from French customs about climbing paraphernalia. They believe that if you have ladders and ropes you must be a burglar
12.30
Sea breezes over the channel as the White Cliffs fade. Edward Whymper is leaving England for an ambitious summer of climbing
08.00
The mountaineering season of 1865 is open! How many unclimbed peaks will be conquered? Chamonix’s Aiguille Verte? Zermatt’s Matterhorn?
