1
The Story So Far

The Official Enquiry into the tragedy that followed the first ascent of the Matterhorn took two days to reach a verdict. No details have been released but it was established that an accident occurred after Douglas Hadow lost his footing, slipped, and the rope that tied him to Michel Croz, Charles Hudson and Lord Francis Douglas pulled them all to their deaths. Mr Whymper has been allowed to return home. 

2
Secrecy and Supposition

Through my contacts I managed a glance at the transcripts of the court sessions, but now it seems those documents are hidden away as if they did not exist. Mr Whymper was most upset when Herr Clemenz, the presiding Judge, reneged on his promise to supply to him the answers that Peter Taugwalder gave. I fear Mr Whymper was being over optimistic if he really believed he would see those documents. I must take care not to be too public about my privileged information, but the questions that demand attention concern choice of rope. It may not be usual practice here, but I would predict that there will soon be calls for publication of these records. I feel the ugly rumours that are starting to circulate would be more easily squashed if clarification were obtained and published.

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Old Peter’s Choice of Rope

I find it unlikely that Old Peter maliciously used a weaker rope between himself and Lord Francis Douglas from the fact that they enjoyed an excursion together on the Gabelhorn only a fortnight ago. Would he condemn to death so excellent a client? And the party had with them copious amounts of rope. Even if the men in front had used up one length, he still had a choice of types of rope or to use this rope double. He said he believed the rope to be good enough and I think we must not judge him badly for that. Here is why -

Last Monday, the Marquess Queensberry, brother of Lord Francis, arrived in town. While sorting through his lost sibling’s affairs, he found an article Lord Francis had penned about the Gabelhorn ascent with Taugwalder. It almost ended in tragedy when the cornice on the peak broke. They would both have tumbled to their deaths but were saved by the rope that tied them to the other guide, Viannin from Zinal. It is highly possible that this was the same sort of rope as that which broke on the Matterhorn. If such a rope had so recently saved his life, it is hardly surprising that Old Peter had such confidence in its strength.

4
Inconsolable Grief

Lord Francis’ brother is quite deranged in his sorrow and we fear for his safety. On Friday last he went missing. Mr McCormick organised a search which found the Marquess high up on the Hörnli, hysterical and calling to his brother as if to find him still alive on some rocky ledge. All night he roamed and it is miraculous he had not met his own death on the unforgiving mountain.

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Also bewitched by grief is Jean Baptiste Croz, who has been here to collect the belongings of Michel. He is lamenting loudly the loss of his brave brother and the impact this will have on the whole family. I know that Mr Whymper also feels the loss keenly. Michel was as tough a character as he was physically strong, but he and Edward Whymper were less like guide and tourist on the mountain and more like brothers. Jean Baptiste returned yesterday to Chamonix, and I fear that the rest of that town will pick quickly up on the accusations being made against the Taugwalders. This will do nothing for the tension already manifest between the inhabitants of these mountain towns. 

6
The furore has reached London

Debate among our Alpine Club members focuses on the mountaineering mistakes that brought about the slip, and Mr Whymper’s reticence to say anything further is allowing much imaginative conjecture. The Leader in The Times has argued stridently how such adventures in the mountains result in such tragic waste of lives. A public thrilled by the spectacle of violent death – especially I might venture when it involves a member of an aristocratic family and a respected clergyman - is joining in.

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I have no heart anymore to remain in these mountains

But having been so close to such tragic events, I shall keep an open ear for information that will fill the gaps. Surely the Report of the Enquiry will be published soon and properly studied, or some other evidence come to light. It is my suspicion that what happened on the Matterhorn in July 1865 will continue to be debated for many years to come.

1
The Story So Far

The bodies of three of the four men who fell to their deaths while descending the Matterhorn were brought back to Zermatt for burial. The remains of Lord Francis Douglas have not been found. Edward Whymper has been persuaded that a letter to The Times was essential to quell the rumours that are spreading like wildfire but he was careful in his explanation to spare the feelings of the relatives of the deceased.

2
An Official Enquiry opened on Friday afternoon

Already it is over. A cloak of secrecy seems to have been draped over the proceedings and the verdict. That the tragedy was the product of a sorry accident for which no one can be held responsible seems to be deemed all that anyone needs to know. The Presiding Judge, Herr Clemenz, is also the owner of the Hotel Mont Cervin, and the motivation to close the episode so not discourage tourists might be supposed to be strong.

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The Enquiry supplied Mr Whymper with a list of questions in advance. I’m not sure if this is usual Swiss practice, but it surprised me! Even more curiously, Mr Whymper was also asked to prepare questions to be put to Old Peter Taugwalder. The only other witnesses called were guides Franz Andenmatten from Almagell and Alexander Lochmatter from St. Niklaus. Both had accompanied Mr Whymper on the day they found the bodies and buried them in the snow. Young Peter Taugwalder has already been given leave to depart Zermatt, as he had an engagement in Chamonix. Of course, what went on behind closed doors can only be guessed at, but I have glimpsed the records and they show little deviation from the questions and answers submitted in advance.

4
Secrecy igniting Supposition

Talk can be inventive. Most popular is the story that involves the rope not breaking at all, but being maliciously cut. Some claim the perpetrator of the crime to have been Old Peter Taugwalder and others Edward Whymper. The efforts to fit the evidence to each theory would be almost amusing, were not the implications so serious. There is no suggestion from either of the accused that they consider the other to be a murderer. I do detect some tension on the part of Mr Whymper towards the Taugwalders, but he assures me that this is nothing to do with the cause of the accident.

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There is an issue, I believe, of far more significance than gossip about axes or knives. Why was a particular rope, it being weaker than the others, deployed between Old Peter and Lord Francis Douglas? Mr Whymper told me that the lesser rope was intended to be used as a fixed line to protect the difficult part of the descent. Why that was not carried out he cannot say. It sounds to me that the the exhileration of the moment played a role in such carelessness.

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Mr Whymper said he designed some questions that would give Peter Taugwalder a chance to explain, and so to exonerate himself from slanderous speculation. From what I have seen of the records, Old Peter replied that he tied himself to Lord Francis with a “special” rope but he was never asked what was special. He is a man of few words and would not elaborate his answer unless requested. How much I wish I could question him further. But the poor chap has withdrawn, hardly surprising with the sort of whisperings that flutter round town.

7
Mr Whymper was finally allowed to leave on Saturday afternoon

Before his departure, he paid off the Taugwalders for the climb, settled Lord Francis Douglas’ outstanding bill at the Mont Cervin and left money with Mr Adams Reilly to give to the family of Michel Croz. He has conducted himself with dignity, but the inner turmoil is evident. He is still so very young, but looks like a man who has been forced seriously to re-evaluate himself and, having looked closely at the terrible face of death, his whole approach to life from now on.

1
The Story So Far

A spectacular season for mountaineering turned to tragedy when four of the first men to reach the summit of the Matterhorn fell to their deaths on the descent. Edward Whymper and the Zermatt guides, Peter Taugwalder father and son, returned to Zermatt. The remains of British climbers Charles Hudson and Douglas Hadow and French guide Michel Croz, were buried in snow close to where their fall came to its end. The body of Lord Francis Douglas has not been found. Quickly, rumours about the cause of the accident started to fly around the town and beyond.

2
The Aftermath of Tragedy

The fine weather broke and the wind they call the Bise set in, bringing with it heavy rain which is snow on the peaks, and a wind that gnaws to the soul. I stay in Zermatt, although the mood here is sombre like the clime, and will endeavour to peel back the layers of supposition that are so quickly building up around the tragedy of the Matterhorn. There will be an official Enquiry, they say, but when, we do not know.

3

The sad business of informing the relatives of the victims began. Mr Robertson sent a lock of Charles Hudson’s hair to his widow. Mr Whymper is guarding Michel Croz’ crucifix to give to the brother of the deceased. Mr Whymper assures us that a boot found at the scene of carnage that was burial ground for the victims belonged to Lord Francis. There is no chance that he still lives, stranded somewhere on those doom laden crags. Hope must die.

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The Zermatt Commune went against the decision to bury the deceased where they lay in the snow and has sent a large contingent of strong guides to retrieve the bodies. Funerals will be held tomorrow morning.

5
Word Travels

I must correct an erroneous report that appeared in the Journal de Genève, which claims it was Lord Francis Douglas who slipped and brought down the other men. Mr Whymper and both Taugwalders concur – it was poor Douglas Hadow who slipped.

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Mr McCormick has written to The Times with the intention of silencing those voices that clamour with uninformed opinions on the matter. It is an unadorned account, in which I understand Mr Whymper to have been careful to spare the feelings of the relatives left behind. This concerns me. It leaves gaps in the story of what occurred on that mountain, and my experience of this world has demonstrated that where gaps remain wild speculation will quickly fill them. Myth becomes fact.

7
The rope that broke

It seems that the rope connecting Old Peter Taugwalder to Lord Francis was of a lesser grade, of insufficient strength to hold four men, free-falling. Questions concerning its use are circulating, embroidered, of course, with innuendo, citing either wilful choice of a weak rope or lack of enough of the stronger variety. But the town has closed up, I cannot find the basis for these rumours.

8
What were Hudson’s plans?

There has been surprise expressed at the inclusion of Mr Douglas Hadow on so ambitious an expedition. A strong and willing youth, he was nonetheless terribly inexperienced. My discussions with Mr McCormick reveal that Mr Hudson’s plan was to wait for the arrivals of Messrs Kennedy and McCormick, and then to attack the Matterhorn with the special ladder and wire rope. But these were left behind and Mr Hadow included on the expedition. Maybe Mr Hudson was viewing this excursion as a reconnoitre. We shall never know for sure.

9
More Sorrow

These vengeful mountains have claimed another victim. Yesterday, the body of William Knyvet Wilson, who travelled with Messrs Robertson and Phillpotts all of them masters at Rugby School, was found at the foot of the Riffelhorn.

10
Maybe the Ascent of the Year

On the day when tragedy pained Zermatt, a miraculous feat of mountaineering was accomplished on another great peak. From Courmayeur, some of our most intrepid mountaineers found a route up the maze-like Brenva Glacier and achieved the highest crossing of the Mont Blanc. I fear that the Matterhorn tragedy will subdue the accolades this feat deserves. But let us celebrate the party – Adolphus Moore, Horace and Frank Walker, George Mathews and their guides, cousins Melchior and Jakob Anderegg.

11
The Second Ascent

On Monday, Jean-Antoine Carrel with fellow guide Jean Baptiste Bich reached the summit of the Matterhorn from Breuil. Now that both routes up this mountain have succeeded, maybe we need see no more blood staining its rocks.

1
The Story So Far

Two attempts on the Matterhorn! Jean-Antoine Carrel set off first but his speed was impeded by the equipment he needs to facilitate a victory for the Italian Alpine Club and by new snow. A haphazard sequence of events led to Edward Whymper teaming up with Lord Francis Douglas and Charles Hudson to make a bid from the Swiss side. Yesterday, victory was claimed for the Swiss route up the East Face, and Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow and Peter Taugwalder father and son were the first men to stand on the top of the Matterhorn.

2
Tragedy on the Matterhorn

Our celebrations turned to mourning, our joy to grief. Three brave Englishmen and a highly regarded French mountain guide lost their lives on that stubborn Matterhorn. Adamant in impregnability, the mountain took its revenge on those who trespassed to its summit.

Only Edward Whymper and the two Swiss guides returned and not until the day after their victorious ascent. The Reverend Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, Mr Douglas Hadow and Michel Croz all perished.

As yet, I cannot write exactly what happened. All I know is that the climbers were roped up for the descent when something occurred that resulted in the four leading men falling to their deaths. The men behind were saved because of a break in the connecting rope. I will endeavour to find out more.

3
The aftermath of the tragedy is in official hands

Mr Whymper spoke to Herr Seiler when first he arrived back in town. Herr Seiler went to the President of the Zermatt Commune, Herr Welchsen, who immediately organised a party to search for bodies. Twenty guides set out and saw the remains of men although only at a distance, it being too dangerous to venture further.

4
Three Corpses Found

Mr Whymper wanted to set out in the night, before the sun should warm the séracs.

The Zermatt guides were unable to accompany him because of the requirement to be at Mass early on Sunday. So he, the Reverend McCormick and two other English gentlemen climbers, Messrs Robertson and Phillpotts, went with guides from Chamonix, St Niklaus and Saas. The Zermatt authorities, I hear, are seriously unhappy at this unofficial enterprise.

They found the bodies. Mr McCormick described the scene to me – Mr Whymper, distraught, prefers to speak to no one, and keeps mainly to his room. I will spare my readers the details of the condition of the bodies, which is deeply disturbing. Three corpses lay together. Reverend McCormick read from Charles Hudson’s prayer book, which was miraculously preserved intact in his pocket, and the mortal remains were buried in the snow. But the body of Lord Francis Douglas, snatched from us so cruelly in the flowering of youth, was nowhere to be seen. He must lie, poor fellow, somewhere higher on those brutal rocks.

5
The Making of Myth

I say I do not yet have exact information about the tragedy, and neither, I believe, does anyone. This has not prevented a veritable explosion of babble through the streets of Zermatt. I do not know where it comes from. Maybe the Chamonix guides who accompanied the search party? I have no idea what Old Peter Taugwalder has done, if anything, that might give rise to stories about rope cutting. Is it a reasonable response to his position on the rope, or is it ignorance, envy or mischief? There is much to discover.

1
The Story So Far

In Chamonix, first and second ascents of the Aiguille Verte were celebrated with canon fire and Champagne. Now focus has turned to the Matterhorn. The guide Jean-Antoine Carrel is organising an assault from Italy and is already on the mountain. Edward Whymper and Lord Francis Douglas met by chance in Breuil, have crossed to Zermatt and will make an attempt from Switzerland that might outpace the Italians. We are not sure yet of the whereabouts of the other team, Charles Hudson, Thomas Kennedy and Joseph McCormick, who also aspire to reach the peak that has held out against so many assailants.

2
The Matterhorn is Conquered!!

An hour ago the brave band of men who departed Zermatt on yesterday’s dawn stood together on the top of the Matterhorn! Lunch was not quite over but we rushed onto the street to see. Seven men stood aloft, so I guess that one of the Taugwalder boys also went to the top. What a day for a young lad!

How long it might take for them to make the descent we can but guess, but their arrival will surely be met with one of the greatest celebrations this town has ever seen.

3
A Haphazard Series of Events

The chance meeting of Mr Whymper and Lord Francis Douglas in Breuil developed into plans for an immediate assault on the mountain, soon followed by the engagement of Old Peter Taugwalder as guide. Then, as we were dining at the Monte Rosa, who should saunter in chatting about plans for the Matterhorn but Charles Hudson and the young Douglas Hadow I met in Chamonix.

4
Random Acts of Planning

So Hudson and Whymper joined forces! Mr Whymper said he considered two separate groups on the mountain to be folly, it would only augment the danger of the enterprise. Then it turned out that Mr Hudson still has Michel Croz in his employ. To climb again with this admirable guide was a strong motivator for Mr Whymper.

Hudson seemed quickly to grasp the need for speed. Whymper expressed concern about the inclusion of the inexperienced Mr Hadow, but was assured, he told me, that Mr Hadow’s strong performance on Mont Blanc showed him to be fit for the task.

The party left in the early hours of yesterday, intending a stop at Schwarzsee where Mr Whymper had stowed provisions including a large quantity of rope of all kinds. They would overnight on a ledge known to Mr Whymper to make the final assault this morning. The weather was perfect.

5
Twists of fate wound this story in their knots

It could so easily have been a different team making that ascent today. The Reverend Joseph McCormick arrived in Zermatt this morning, to take up Zermatt’s Chaplaincy AND to meet with Charles Hudson and try for the Matterhorn. If McCormick had not been delayed on his journey to Zermatt by atrocious weather and Mr Kennedy not called back to London by his business, maybe they would now be standing on that summit. Mr Kennedy is one of our boldest mountaineers, it is a sad thing that his season is ended. I understand that his courageous guide, Peter Perren, is also deeply disappointed that their plans have been foiled.

6
Another cause for celebration..

…is news that Adolphus Moore and Horace Walker, with their guide Jakob Anderegg, made it to the summit of the Pigne d’Arolla a few days ago. What a glorious summer!

7
Carrel and the Italian climbers…

..must have been thwarted by the snow. It would seem they have spent many nights in their tent on the side of the mountain, unable to progress further

1
The Story So Far

Mountaineering this summer is reaching new heights as unclimbed peaks and passes fall to some intrepid climbers. Edward Whymper made a first ascent of the awe-inspiring Aiguille Verte with Almer and Biner. He was soon followed up that mountain by Messrs Hudson, Kennedy and Hodgkinson, guided by Croz, Ducroix and Peter Perren. Whymper was then leaving the Chamonix valley, hoping to find another new pass over that watershed that marks the divide over to Italy and Courmayeur. Now sights are turning to the Matterhorn and some new players are joining the field.

2
Whymper’s Next Move

The traverse over a new Col, the Talèfre, from Chamonix to Courmayeur took Whymper, Almer and Biner a staggering ten hours – this must be a record! En route to Val Tournanche they reached the summit of the previously unclimbed Ruinette. But neither guide has the heart for the Matterhorn. So Mr Whymper sought out Jean-Antoine Carrel, who, it seemed, had a few days spare. Carrel is one of the few guides gifted with the strength and skill demanded by the Matterhorn. Perhaps more importantly, Carrel believes that the proud mountain can be climbed. Among Zermatt guides, it seems that only Peter Perren and Old Peter Taugwalder share this belief.

3
But I had forebodings….

There were whispered rumours in the village that Carrel, with his brother and some other local men, reached somewhere high up their Monte Cervino just last Thursday, before being repulsed by atrocious weather. Then, a great caravan with mules and porters carrying parcels that looked suspiciously like ill-disguised paraphernalia for climbing arrived. In the company of this procession was no other than Signor Giordano. Now, Mr Whymper would not recognise this gentleman, nor does he have the Italian to interpret the murmuring that flutters around the village. But I do.

Sr Felice Giordano is a founder of the Italian Alpine Club, whose members have their hearts set on achieving some feat that will bring honour to Italy. I met him last year, in Zermatt, and I suspect he was then considering making the Matterhorn that target. Carrel is a patriot. Putting together these factors made me fear that things were not quite as Mr Whymper believed.

4
Carrel’s real plans laid bare

Mr Whymper now believed that, at last, he had a real chance of success at last. He passed the next days of filthy weather in preparation for the climb. But early this morning, Carrel started out to scale his beloved Monte Cervino for the glory of Italy. He will fix ropes to prepare a way to the top for Sr Giordano of the Italian Alpine Club, which has been funding him all along. I have been unable to discover more as Sr Giordano hides in his room, trying to ensure that Mr Whymper remain ignorant of the plan.

5
New plans for the Matterhorn – from Switzerland!

After his disappointment, it seemed that Mr Whymper was stuck in Italy. No guides or porters could be found. All were busy with Carrel or, most mysteriously, had important tasks like making cheese or hunting marmots to prevent their employment. Then, as the sun tried to show its face, a party appeared over the Col Théodul. It was Lord Francis Douglas, of the Queensberry clan, with a porter from Zermatt, Joseph Taugwalder. Lord Francis is scouting out the Italian side with a view to trying the Matterhorn next year himself.

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At the sweet age of only 18 Lord Francis is a strong and capable young man. Last week he climbed the Obergabelhorn with Peter Taugwalder, young Joseph’s father. He had hoped for a first ascent, but I can report that Adolphus Moore and Horace Walker had achieved that acclaim a few days previously. Lord Francis and Mr Whymper hit it off immediately and they were conversing merrily all afternoon. Out of this a plan emerged. The Matterhorn! Post haste!

7

Carrel’s strategy requires much groundwork that will slow his progress. There might be time for Mr Whymper and Lord Francis to overtake the Italians. They will cross to Zermatt and engage Old Peter Taugwalder. They would have left tonight were it not for another angry storm that rages against the mountain. I shall accompany the mountaineers over the Pass. Tomorrow evening we arrive at Zermatt.

1
The Story So Far

Edward Whymper has increased his tally of first ascents by reaching the summit of the Aiguille Verte as well as the Grand Cornier, although his forays on the Italian side of the Matterhorn were repelled. Now, other British mountaineers are joining this energetic campaign. The camaraderie enjoyed among climbers such as Messrs Kennedy and Whymper is high, unlike the rivalry between the Alpine towns on whose mountains we trespass. Calm has been restored to Chamonix but it feels like a fragile peace that any untoward event might break.

2
Second Ascent of the Aiguille Verte

The Reverend Hudson and Mr Kennedy (and, apparently, his dog) were also determined on an ascent of the Aiguille Verte. John Birkbeck should have been in the party but he fell ill en route to the mountains and has returned to England. In consequence, he has passed his engagement of Michel Croz to Hudson. Yesterday, Hudson and Kennedy with their friend Hodgkinson, achieved that 2^nd ascent, after Whymper’s 1^st just a few days ago. The guides were Croz, Ducroix and Peter Perren from Zermatt. Of course, Mrs Kennedy and Hudson’s young companions, Hadow and Kennedy, remained in Chamonix to watch the ascent from powerful telescopes.

They took a slightly different route to that ascended by Whymper last week, ascending a rocky ridge they call Moine. It sounded a long and difficult climb. All six (excluding Mr Kennedy’s dog who must be the first canine to have stood on that summit) roped together for the descent, Croz at the front and Hudson at the rear, a strategy that is becoming increasingly the norm on tricky stretches of rock.

3
Changes to the company

So poor John Birkbeck’s ambitions for this summer have been thwarted. The Reverend Joseph McCormick, a great friend of Hudson’s, had also planned to join the attack on the Aiguille Verte. But he had to travel from Grindelwald where he is Chaplain for two weeks. After completing his Sunday ministrations he departed Grindelwald at midnight so that he could join the climb. After 30 hours of travelling, he arrived at Argentière to find a note from Hudson that they would start from Chamonix. Eventually he caught the party, but was so debilitated by the rigours of the journey that he had to turn back with Mr Hadow and Mrs Kennedy when they reached the point beyond which the weaker members of the party would not go.

4

Messrs Hudson and Kennedy will spend some time on less ambitious adventures, and will scale the snow slopes of Mont Blanc. Young Mr Hadow is delighted that this time he will join the attempt for the summit. His first visit to the Alps was last year, when he spent many days trapped at the Riffel above Zermatt participating in little action due to the weather which was dismal. The famous Matterhorn declined to show itself fully during the whole of his sojourn. He hopes to see more this time around.

5
Yet Another New Pass!

Edward Whymper left Chamonix on Monday planning to find a new route, faster and quicker, over to Courmayeur. Fortunately, he left at precisely the same time as a fellow English climber, Arthur Girdlestone, who was taking the traditional Col du Géant. We wait with anticipation to find who arrived in Courmayeur first.

I must depart Chamonix in order to inform myself of what is happening elsewhere in these Alps. Last week, Messrs Moore and Walker made a First Ascent of the Piz Roseg, an achievement that has astounded Pontresina and beyond. They plan next somehow to get over to Zinal somehow, and have in their sights a few more summits.

1
The Story So Far

Edward Whymper, with his guides Croz, Almer and Biner, have cut impressive tracks across the mountains, making a first ascent of the Grand Cornier, a third of the Dent Blanche and sought out some innovative routes across Cols and Passes. They spent some challenging days making attempts on the Matterhorn from the Italian side but without significant progress. Now it feels that everyone is congregating at Chamonix.

2
A First up the Grandes Jorasses

Mr Whymper has achieved a First Ascent of the intimidating Grandes Jorasses! It was a magnificent achievement, although he and his guides were slightly frustrated to have reached only the slightly lower western peak of the mountain. The ridge to the eastern summmit eluded even them. On the descent back to the town of Courmayeur they experienced what must have been a terrifying brush with death. It was the snow and not their judgement that produced the glissade that hastened their descent. They would have been swept over a cliff if they had not the skill to jump aside. I would hazard a guess they are lucky that they all escaped with their lives!

3
Crossing of the Col Dolent.

Mr Whymper aspired (although did not expect, as he admitted with his ironic smile) to find a way from Courmayeur to Chamonix that would improve on the Col du Géant, the usual pass taken between the two villages. His passage sounded to me neither easy nor quick, required a level of excellence in the guides rarely found and a lot of good manila rope. They spent 7 hours of intense axe work descending an ice filled couloir with a gradient over 50°. Mr Whymper was enthusiastic in his praise for his guides. These are men whose mountain skills will henceforth be sought by many of our climbing brethren.

4
A First Ascent of the Aiguille Verte!!

Edward Whymper, Christian Almer and Franz Biner were the first men to reach the snowy dome of the mountain I thought would hold out – the colossal Aiguille Verte. Sadly for Mr Whymper, Croz has now left his engagement and waits in Chamonix for the arrival of Mr Birkbeck. Mr Whymper described the view from that lofty summit as the most captivating he has had the fortune to witness. He was enthusiastic also about Almer’s masterful route finding, choosing a couloir different to that which Whymper himself had proposed, that turned out to be entirely successful.

5
Fracas! Chamonix guides and German guides

Canons fired in celebration of a successful ascent of the Aiguille Verte and we greeted Mr Whymper at the hotel with Champagne. But while we caroused, moods in town turned sour. A squabble, verbal abuse turning to blows, started with the Chamonix guides ganging up on Biner and Almer. They call them the “German Guides”, and their crime was making the first ascent of what the locals call “their” mountain. I believe the whole situation might have escalated to ugly violence had not the gendarmes arrived promptly.

I have to lament the occurrence of such a brawl. Why does Chamonix not celebrate this brave success, whosoever achieved it? This first ascent is bound to bring more visitors, from whom all will benefit. The rivalry between these towns is more bitter than any between the tourists who are endeavouring to climb these peaks.

6
The English Climbing Fraternity Gathers

Mr John Birkbeck and the Reverend Charles Hudson have left London. Their luggage includes contraptions, including a portable ladder and wire rope, that Mr Hudson believes will facilitate the more tricky sections of his scrambles. Although Mr Hudson intends to undertake some serious mountaineering, he is accompanied by two young men, Messrs Campbell and Hadow. Hudson believes that physical fitness and godliness go hand in hand, and enjoys introducing his pupils to the wonders of the Alps.

Tomorrow Messrs Kennedy and Whymper take a stroll on the glacier together to discuss routes up the Aiguille Verte, as Mr Kennedy hopes to achieve the second ascent sometime in the coming days. Two days ago, he and Hudson tried to climb it from the North with Peter Perren as guide. I wonder what Chamonix would think of that!

Nobody, however, is climbing anything for now. The weather is gloomy. We must wait for it to clear.

1
The Story So Far

My roving summer began in Zermatt. Then I met Edward Whymper in Zinal. He is determined to make the best of his time with Michel Croz, and has ambitious plans for the coming weeks. They include the Matterhorn! So I came to Val Tournanche, as I knew Whymper to be heading this way. It is from this, the Italian side, that many believe that our Matterhorn, their Monte Cervino, will finally capitulate.

2
The Grand Cornier conquered!

Not only did Edward Whymper succeed in making a first ascent of the mighty Grand Cornier but he decided to have a go at the nearby Dent Blanche as well. Unlike the Grand Cornier, the Dent Blanche would not be a first ascent as Mr Kennedy claimed that prize during his legendary season of 1862. Second to the summit of a challenging peak, however, is still an achievement.

But…. Last Monday we were all in Zermatt. I joined Edward Whymper and Thomas Kennedy as they shared experiences. Mr Whymper mentioned a cairn he saw on the top of the Dent Blanche and commended Kennedy on his work.

“Oh no sir,” laughed Mr Kennedy, “We left no cairn in 1862. That must have been left by the man who went up last year.” So it was in fact a third for Mr Whymper. He describes the Dent Blanche as the toughest climb he has ever attempted.

Mr Kennedy’s eyes also turn towards the Matterhorn in anticipation of an assault later in the season. For now he passes sociable days in Zermatt in the company of his lady wife and their adventurous dog. On Sunday he will leave Zermatt to travel to Chamonix, there to join up with Messrs Hudson and McCormick to begin their campaign.

3
Nights in a Hovel

Whymper and his guides had a most trying journey from Zinal to Zermatt. After the Grand Cornier, they intended to pass the night at the hamlet of Abricolla. But the place was deserted and the chalets burnt out shells. Biner and Croz chose to walk all the way down to Evolène in search of comfort while Whymper and Almer passed a cold night in a chalet. They returned rather later next morning than arranged, and had to return to Abricolla after the Dent Blanche ascent. On Sunday they again started out too late as Biner had to go back to Evolène to hear Mass before going anywhere. A dreadful storm left them going round in circles. As the snow swirled and mists shrouded the route, each guide called the others imbeciles for not finding the way. Only on the third attempt the next day did they make it over to Zermatt.

4
Foray on the Matterhorn

Whymper and his team have been investigating the possibilities offered by an ascent of the east face that they call the Hörnli. However, unforeseen difficulties, such as the shrinking glacier and ricochets of rocks, have impeded the would-be conquerors.

I get the impression that Biner and Almer are becoming discouraged and these trials may be reinforcing their belief, shared by so many, that the Matterhorn really is impregnable and will never be conquered. Mr Whymper sounded the retreat and they are setting out towards the region of the Mont Blanc. It must be that unclimbed Aiguille Verte that calls them.

1
The Story So Far

In Zermatt, Herr Seiler of the Monte Rosa hotel brought me up to date with Edward Whymper’s aborted hopes for the Matterhorn last July. Then I received news that Mr Whymper’s 1865 campaign is already underway and he was soon to reach Zinal. I came to learn of his plans.

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The Start of a Campaign

The village of Zinal perches on a high ledge, surrounded by impressive, unclimbed peaks. Edward Whymper arrived here yesterday. His meticulous mind is occupied planning routes and developing strategy to find the most effective, the most elegant, climbs across the Alps. I feel he has the skills and has the energy to confront some of the biggest mountaineering challenges that remain.

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The role of the mountain guide…

… is changing. While these peasants were first of all mountain men who carried our equipment and provisions, cut steps through ice and snow and deployed their mountain craft to the service of our expeditions, some are now starting to excel as climbers in their own right. These are the men whose mountaineering skills and their will to climb outmatch those of many of their peers. Michel Croz from Chamonix is one of those men.

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So Mr Whymper delighted to be in the company of Croz but is deeply disappointed not to have his services for the whole summer. He regrets having made so nebulous an arrangement with the guide last year, a few snatched words when they parted at Visp. It is not to Croz’ discredit that he accepted a firmer offer employment by Mr John Birkbeck from Yorkshire which begins on the 27^th of this month.

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As well as Croz, My Whymper has engaged two other guides who must be at the peak of the profession, Christian Almer from Grindelwald and Franz Biner from Zermatt. With so strong a team, I have a suspicion that some of the more stubborn mountains will be forced to shake off their cloaks of invincibility and surrender.

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Next on Mr Whymper’s list is the unclimbed Grand Cornier.

Or has that peak already succumbed? It’s not entirely clear. When Mr Whymper reached Zinal, he spotted in the hotel Guest Book an entry made by Mr Adolphus Moore, celebrating a first ascent of the Grand Cornier, with his guide – Franz Biner! Well, Mr Whymper turned in askance to the man. But Biner shook his head –

“Sorry Herr, we thought we had reached the top but now I am sure it was only a point along the way.”

They left early, shortly after 2 am, this morning. I look forward to telling you the result of their attempt. Their intention is to continue to Zermatt, by some new and perilous route. Then, I am sure, Mr Whymper will be looking towards the Matterhorn. Good luck to them!

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The Story So Far

I came first to Zermatt, as I fully expect this remote village in the thrall of the mighty Matterhorn to have an important role to play in the drama of 1865. I drink a toast to the coming season with Herr Seiler of the Monte Rosa hotel.

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The Matterhorn remains aloof

For a few days in 1864, Herr Seiler suspected the Matterhorn might, at last, allow the feet of men to its summit. Young Edward Whymper arrived in Zermatt with Mr Adolphus Moore on a mid-July evening. They had made the first ever crossing of the Moming Pass from Zinal to Zermatt with their guides Michel Croz from Chamonix and Christian Almer from Grindelwald. Mr Whymper was all set to attack the Matterhorn. His friend, Mr Adams Reilly, was en route with equipment. But suddenly Mr Whymper received a telegram. He was most distraught, Herr Seiler tells me, about a business problem and would return to London forthwith. Mr Whymper left bidding Mr Adams Reilly to have a go at the Matterhorn with Croz. However, rainy weather had left the rock covered in ice, and Adams Reilly determined to have nothing to say to it.

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Who will make that 1^st Ascent?

Foremost contenders must be the team of Charles Hudson, Thomas Stuart Kennedy and Joseph McCormick. Mr Hudson is an accomplished mountaineer with ten years of experience, be that mostly on snow peaks not rock. Mr Kennedy has been sniffing around the Matterhorn for many years now, and challenged all our presumptions by making an attempt in January 1862, arguing that winter’s snow would make possible that which summer’s ice prevented. He was forced to turn back when the atrocious conditions almost froze him and his guides Peter Perren and Old Peter Taugwalder to death. The Reverend McCormick, a strong athlete, is going to enjoy a truly alpine summer, having taken on the Chaplaincy at Grindelwald and then at Zermatt.

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But Mr Whymper must be a strong challenger. His achievements during his five year climbing career are impressive. Sadly, Mr Adams Reilly is fully occupied with surveys for his Alpine maps this summer, so will not be accompanying his friend on the campaign. I hear that Mr Whymper has managed to arrange an early release from his engraving work and is, as I write, travelling towards the mountains. His business ranks highly in his priorities, so this summer’s climbing must mean a lot to him. Such motivation surely magnifies his chances of success, or maybe reduces caution. Time shall tell. Mr Whymper is starting his campaign from Lauterbrunnen so I would speculate he has in mind the unclimbed Ebnefluhjoch.

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Adolphus Moore and Horace Walker are possibly two of the strongest of our British climbers in the Alps this season, and they have hired a guide whose talents are being spoken of with awe – Jakob Anderegg from Oberwil in the Simmental. But I have the impression that the Matterhorn is of no interest to them. They are on their way to begin the summer in the area of Switzerland they call they Graubünden. They are clearly seeking places that are, as yet, less explored.